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"If you really want to make it good, you should use a lot of eggs...and don't forget the fresh grated nutmeg." So sayeth Dennis Loeser, spaetzle maker.
Special Equipment: This recipe requires a spaetzle press or hobel, available for purchase at Delicatessen Meyer, 4750 N. Lincoln Ave, Chicago (773-561-3377).
Spotlight on spaetzle: These tiny, fresh dumpling-noodles are divine with roasted duck, roast beef, bratwurst, sauerbraten, goulash or chicken paprikash. Use spaetzle in broth soups instead of traditional noodles or rice. If you are making spaetzle for soup, omit the last step of panfrying in butter.
Six eggs
A few tablespoons of milk
Two to three cups all-purpose flour
One-half of one whole nutmeg, grated
One "shake" of salt and a dash of white pepper
Four tablespoons (one-half stick) salted butter
Mix eggs, milk, flour, nutmeg, salt and white pepper. Add just enough flour so that the dough isn't sticky but not too firm that it holds a ball shape. ("You don't want it so firm that you have to break your arm to move it across the grate. You don't want it so runny that when you put it inside the hopper it oozes out. There's a happy medium in there.") Place ten to twelve cups of water in a stock pot and bring to a gentle boil. Place dough in spaetzle maker and press through into boiling water. Cook for a minute or two, or until noodles rise to the top. Pull out spaetzle with a large sieve or slotted spoon. On a dry cloth, spread noodles and allow to cool so they don't stick together.
Take some of the butter and heat in a large skillet. Saute noodles until very lightly browned, adding more butter as needed to prevent sticking. Remove from pan. Noodles may be refrigerated and warmed later but are best if served immediately.
Variation: Add two or three tablespoons of finely chopped fresh herbs, such as parsley and thyme, to dough.
Yield: Four to five side servings
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